As one of the world's great capitals, there is no doubt that it would be a bit of a struggle to say anything original about Madrid. At the same time, it would be pretty impossible to do justice to the place in a few short paragraphs. So, instead, a look at the eating experiences we had there.
A trip to Madrid usually starts with a trip to its Plaza Mayor, very close to Sol, the physical centre of Madrid. It is a grand ancient square, arcaded all around its sweeping pedestrian area in the middle, built as a public meeting place. It is also predictably heaving with tourists, with restaurants and bars squeezed along the front of every part of the facade. And, of course, each of them has terrace tables that provide unbeatable people watching. Although they are somewhat overpriced, it is worth a quick stop even if it is just for a beer. From a sunny spot, you can watch the world go by and enjoy the antics of the many street performers. My favourite was an overweight Spiderman who did nothing but stand there on display, and yet mysteriously still managed to get money from onlookers.
In the evening, we decided to try our hand at a classic Madrileños habit – tapas. We headed to Chueca, Northeast of the centre, where a network of narrow streets play host to many traditional tapas bars, modern restaurants and glitzy cocktail bars. The whole area is very lively and well worth a night out. Our evening included a traditional tapas bar where, lined along the counter, there were various types of jamón, ready to be sliced and served.Close by the Plaza Mayor is Madrid’s royal palace, El Palacio Real, worth a trip inside at least to see the incredibly over-the-top throne room. Madrid’s cathedral is right next door and could be a bit of a disappointment if you compare it with other grand Spanish cathedrals. In fact, it is relatively modern and has an interior to match, with beautiful and wildly coloured ceilings and abstract stained glass.
I had no idea that there could be so many varieties, each one cured in a different way, and with varying prices to match. What came was a plate of very finely sliced ham, tender and flavoursome – it was beautiful. We continued our crawl of the tapas bars in the area, stopping in to an intimate bar with a tiny theatre at the back. The tapas here were much more potato focussed, with delicious sauces to go with them. Another of the highlights was a great pile of scalding calamari served simply with lemon. The next morning we walked through the barrio of Salamanca, where the best (and most expensive) shops in Madrid are found on the wide boulevards of this area north of one of Madrid’s great parks, El Retiro. From there we walked into the well landscaped park itself, which provides the West border of the centre of Madrid. It was crowded with Sunday walkers out in the warm autumn sun. Again, there were many sights to distract the eye, including a man who had trained his dog to jump on to his back. The local kids loved it. Then it was off to another Sunday tradition, El Rastro, a flea market South of Plaza Mayor, teeming with people and the most random collection of junk for sale, the stalls and cafes lining the steep main street.
We finished off in a busy covered market, Mercado de San Miguel, not so much a traditional market selling goods, but a series of stalls selling drinks and food to consume there.
We armed ourselves with a glass of wine from one of the stalls offering a huge variety by the glass and wondered around. It was filled with different meats, cakes, empanadas, sweets, intricate chocolates and all sorts of other treats, most of it ready to be consumed there and then. The aromas of various dishes cooking filled the air tempting the many people went by. It was a shame I didn’t have more room to try one of everything!
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